Circle Skirt Hem

I just finished this quick little wool blend circular skater skirt - a speedy little update on a basic circle skirt.  It's a good thing to make with those small ends or remnants you've got hiding in your stash -- or in this case, when you can't decide which fabric to use because you like them all!

I used Butterick pattern 4686, but you could just as easily do this with any other pattern.  It also  works great with straight pencil skirts. For a circle skirt, you want to increase the yardage for each band by about 6" (depending on the size of the skirt).  For this skirt I used a scant 1/4 yard for the top band, 3/8 yard for the middle, and 5/8 yard for the third section.  I simply cut my pattern into 7" wide sections.  If you're taller, you may want to use wider bands. 

This made me think about how many times someone asks me how to put a narrow hem in a circle skirt, so I thought I would share my favorite method with you. First of all, there are LOTS of different ways to hem a circle; this is just one.  But here's why I like it: 

1) It works on many different weights of fabric.  Roll hemming feet work best with only lighter weights.
2) It's easy -- one pass with the serger -- one pass with the sewing machine, no ease stitch involved.
3) It's pretty on top and bottom. Only one line of straight stitching shows on both the top and bottom sides.

Here's how you do it.

Step 1: Serge the skirt edge. Don't press.
What??? Don't press??? You're always supposed to press!  Yes -- but not right now.... resist ...walk away from the ironing board...  really ...

Have you ever folded a piece of paper to "score" a line?  In essence, this is what you are doing to the fibers of your garment with this initial line of serging.  The serging stitch is controlling, or easing, the outside edge of your circle. If you press it now, you're going to un-do what you've just done, so don't! If you have a differential feed adjustment on your serger you can play with the amount of ease.  But I usually don't go to the trouble -- I just serge the edge below the hemline. (usually 3/8" below hemline)

The width to leave below your hemline should be equal to twice the width of your serging stitch.
The width of your serged edge is the finished width of your hem, so if you can alter the width of your serging by moving your knife blade this will make a narrower or a wider hem.

Step 2 is to turn under the serged edge and stitch close to the edge.  For all you pinners out there look at the first picture.  Truthfully, I don't usually find it necessary to use pins at all for this hem (and you won't either -- look at the second picture).  The serged stitch rolls easily to the inside; turn it to the inside as you are stitching.  NOW YOU CAN PRESS!  FINISHED!


THE SECRET TO SUCCESS

The secret to making this process easy is using the right foot on your sewing machine.  This hemming method uses my favorite foot -- the Edge-Joining foot.  We carry this foot to fit all Viking models, and most other sewing machine brands offer one as well.  If you don't have it - get it - it will make your sewing life easier and you'll look like you tried really hard to make all those stitching lines even and straight.  Just accept the compliments -- non-sewers don't need to know the foot does all the work!

 

This little foot is a miracle worker in the sewing world.  (If you think you may have one but aren't quite sure, look closely at the foot.  It has a little straight bar that stops before the needle position.  Many people mistake a blind hem or hemstitching foot for this one.) Use it with your needle in center position for perfect stitching-in-the-ditch, move your needle position to the left or right of the bar for beautiful top-stitching, use it with a zig-zag stitch to join two pieces of lace or edgings -- I could go on and on.  It is my favorite accessory foot!

So, circle up and don't be afraid to hem with confidence!
Rebecca

Tricks of the Trade #1

Tip #1    The Skirt Slit 

Each week in our blog we'll be bringing you a tip for making your sewing look more professional, for better-fitting garments, pattern alterations, and sewing with specialty fabrics.  Is there something you've struggled with?  Send me an email and I'll try to post a tutorial to solve your problem. 

Today's tip is for the perfect, non-bulky skirt slit (also works with a kick-pleat)

What’s the proper way to finish a slit or kick-pleat?  Do you turn up the hem first?  The facing first?  What looks best?  Do the edges get bulky?  Have you ever had a skirt slit rip up the seam of your skirt?  Then read on…

The Retro dress (described in yesterday's post) features a couture finish for a slit or kick-pleat in a skirt. 

 Miter the corners; it creates less bulk for the edges.  When mitering corners, the iron is your best friend.  For a perfect miter, follow these instructions – they work even when the facing width and hem width are different.

Step 1: Press facing toward inside.  Press hem up at proper width. (It doesn’t have to equal the width of the facing, but it looks pretty when they’re the same.) Mark both the hem and the facing where they meet. (See figure 1)

 Figure 1

Step 2: Open out both facing and hem.  With right sides together, fold the hem and facing, bringing the marks together.  Stitch from this mark to the pressed corner. (See figure 2)

figure 2

Step 3: Trim the seam,  trimming at a 45 degree angle toward the corner.  Press seam open and turn to outside.  Press. Repeat with the other side of the slit, making sure that slit lengths are the same. (See figure 3 and 4)

figure 3 and 4

Step 4: To keep a slit from ripping further up the seam, first reinforce the slit when you stitch, using a piece of seam tape, seams great,  or organza. (See figure 5)

figure 5

Step 5:  Sew the eye portion of a hook and eye to the inside of the garment facing at the top of the slit.  It will never tear! (See figure 6) Note: I usually use the bar portion of a dress hook/eye closure, but a skirt eye-bar closure works as well and is shown in the picture.

figure 6

Happy Sewing!

Rebecca