Tricks of the Trade #1

Tip #1    The Skirt Slit 

Each week in our blog we'll be bringing you a tip for making your sewing look more professional, for better-fitting garments, pattern alterations, and sewing with specialty fabrics.  Is there something you've struggled with?  Send me an email and I'll try to post a tutorial to solve your problem. 

Today's tip is for the perfect, non-bulky skirt slit (also works with a kick-pleat)

What’s the proper way to finish a slit or kick-pleat?  Do you turn up the hem first?  The facing first?  What looks best?  Do the edges get bulky?  Have you ever had a skirt slit rip up the seam of your skirt?  Then read on…

The Retro dress (described in yesterday's post) features a couture finish for a slit or kick-pleat in a skirt. 

 Miter the corners; it creates less bulk for the edges.  When mitering corners, the iron is your best friend.  For a perfect miter, follow these instructions – they work even when the facing width and hem width are different.

Step 1: Press facing toward inside.  Press hem up at proper width. (It doesn’t have to equal the width of the facing, but it looks pretty when they’re the same.) Mark both the hem and the facing where they meet. (See figure 1)

 Figure 1

Step 2: Open out both facing and hem.  With right sides together, fold the hem and facing, bringing the marks together.  Stitch from this mark to the pressed corner. (See figure 2)

figure 2

Step 3: Trim the seam,  trimming at a 45 degree angle toward the corner.  Press seam open and turn to outside.  Press. Repeat with the other side of the slit, making sure that slit lengths are the same. (See figure 3 and 4)

figure 3 and 4

Step 4: To keep a slit from ripping further up the seam, first reinforce the slit when you stitch, using a piece of seam tape, seams great,  or organza. (See figure 5)

figure 5

Step 5:  Sew the eye portion of a hook and eye to the inside of the garment facing at the top of the slit.  It will never tear! (See figure 6) Note: I usually use the bar portion of a dress hook/eye closure, but a skirt eye-bar closure works as well and is shown in the picture.

figure 6

Happy Sewing!

Rebecca